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Custom Knife Design, Construction & WIP Here's the place to discuss all facets of custom knife design, construction, techniques, styles, embellishments, ergonomics, applied art and materials. Also, we love "WIP" (work in progress) threads.

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  #1  
Old 02-03-2011, 02:53 AM
Kevin Jones's Avatar
Kevin Jones Kevin Jones is offline
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Default Frame Handle Construction?

I like frame or cased constructed handles. Makers have been building them for quite some time.

I think the initial reason the process was developed was to create a better, way to hold a handle and guard on to the Bowie. Also by utilizing slab or scale cut handle material in the frame process, the maker is able to maximize his handle material, which is nice if he has a smaller piece of special ivory which he would like to use on a particular knife. Another plus in my opinion is that it allows the maker to expand on his design by using damascus on his frame or engraving it. And it’s just one more way a maker can demonstrate his or her skill as it’s a very tedious process when performed correctly.

Probably one of the biggest disadvantages is the possibility of handle material shrinkage. Yes, a framed handle can look quite bad if the handle material shrinks away from the frame. This unsightly condition can be mitigated as a result of contouring the handle/frame material.

One reason I started this thread is to get input from makers as to their preferences or tricks (let’s give away some secrets) used in their frame construction process and/or to correct any of my misconceptions above. Also let’s hear form collectors as to their likes or dislikes regarding frame handles and why.

I have included some good in process photos form both Jerry Fisk and Tim Hancock to help demonstrate the process. The Fisk also has a rear bolster and the Hancock fileworked spacers both adding to the complexity. In my opinion, these two makers are among the very best at this method of handle construction.
Note the small groves Jerry cuts into the interior of the frame to allow bonding material to seep in, increasing the bond to the tang. A slight task but one that helps.











Thanks for looking....
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  #2  
Old 02-03-2011, 05:41 AM
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I love the weight of frame handled knives. They feel very serious. I can see how the handle material can be a problem. BTW, thanks for posting those pics of my Hancock, I had never seen them!
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Old 02-03-2011, 01:53 PM
Lin Rhea Lin Rhea is offline
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I enjoy making a frame handle, but I am choosy about the knife. Price point does enters into the mix when it comes to somemakers since they are a little more time consuming. I like them for the reasons you mentioned Kevin and Jon, heft is nice if the blade is weighted to match, but I dont like them if they get TOO rear heavy. Steps have to be taken to insure balance. When a maker has made a few, he can see it better.

Tommy Gann and John White are a couple other makers that take frame handles to a new level.
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Old 02-03-2011, 03:52 PM
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On a higher end piece, I prefer a frame handle much more than a mortised handle.
Bob
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:18 PM
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It's interesting how "frame handle construction" has evolved into "take-down construction" which seems to have become more and more popular over the last few years.

Bruce Bump Pinkerton Bowie:




Kyle Royer Ring Guard Bowie:


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Last edited by Kevin Jones; 02-04-2011 at 10:31 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2011, 09:50 PM
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Which do you think is the stronger , Frame handle , Full tang with slab hadles , Full tapered tang with slab handles or stick tang with non mortized handle - Jerry
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Manuel View Post
Which do you think is the stronger , Frame handle , Full tang with slab handles , Full tapered tang with slab handles or stick tang with non mortized handle - Jerry
Good question Jerry. I hope our makers will chime in with some advantages/disadvantages of the various methods of handle construction.

The advantage I see for frame handle constriction is that the guard gets slide over the tang as opposed to being pinned on for full tang construction. The former perhaps creating a stronger blade/guard/handle unit.

Stick tang construction offers the same benefit of guard over tang however is absent some other advantages of frame handle construction.
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Last edited by Kevin Jones; 02-04-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Manuel View Post
Which do you think is the stronger , Frame handle , Full tang with slab hadles , Full tapered tang with slab handles or stick tang with non mortized handle - Jerry
I feel that properly done, all the above mentioned methods will provied adequite strength of the end user.

My JS performance test knife was a full tang knife with slabs and passed the test including the 90 degree bend with no falilure or deformation at the tang.

My MS performance test blade was a stick tang and passed the test including the 90 degree bend with no falilure or deformation at the tang. The MS blade was 336 layers and the tang was forged down and threaded.

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Old 02-08-2011, 09:50 PM
Karl B. Andersen Karl B. Andersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Manuel View Post
Which do you think is the stronger , Frame handle , Full tang with slab handles , Full tapered tang with slab handles or stick tang with non mortised handle - Jerry
I even took the hidden tang construction one step further and did my JS performance test with a full take-down knife.
No compromise was experienced on any of the components following chopping or 90* bend. And I built a knife so tough that I had to bend with a four foot cheater. I couldn't budge it by hand.

(My MS performance knife will be take-down as well.)

But I guess if I had to head off into the wild with only one knife, I might choose a full tang with slabs.
Even if the slabs cracked and fell off, I would still have a usable knife.

But, like Brian says, correctly done, any of the assembly methods we use will work and work well.
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl B. Andersen View Post
But I guess if I had to head off into the wild with only one knife, I might choose a full tang with slabs.
Even if the slabs cracked and fell off, I would still have a usable knife.
Good point.
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